For a lower-level walk that still packs in a real sense of adventure, you’ll want to head to the Valley of Desolation. With beautiful views, rewarding walking, history, ruins, stepping stones, the most dangerous stretch of water in the UK, thick forest and more, this tranquil valley is somewhere not to be missed. There are plenty of walks in the area and this guide will help you plan a day out along the lower valley, with a hidden waterfall thrown in for good measure.
At a Glance
Difficulty: easy – paths are flat, well maintained and signposted. However, access down to the waterfall is steep and slippery as well as not being signposted.
Distance: 7.9km/4.9miles
Total Ascent: 170m
Est Time: 2.5hrs not including stops
Starting location: Riverside car park at the Cavendish Pavillion (£15). Alternative parking at the other end of the walk, north of The Strid at Barden Bridge.
Dog friendly: Dogs are permitted through the woodland path along the edge of the River Wharfe but must be kept on a lead. Dogs are not permitted through the Valley of Desolation itself or up to Simon’s Seat. If you venture onto Barden Moor, you must keep to public rights of way.
Where is the Valley of Desolation?
On the edge of the Yorkshire Dales, lies the Valley of Desolation. It links the River Wharfe to Barden Fell and continues onto the peak of Simon’s Seat at 485m high. Named after a storm in 1826 that completely desolated (hence the name) the valley, it’s a place that feels wild and tranquil, even though it lies in the well-maintained estate of Bolton Abbey.
The Valley of Desolation is also home to a wonderful waterfall that's worth visiting too. It has a shallow pool at the bottom and can be a bit tricky to find as it's not on the main path and not signposted. You can find the waterfall though by following the walk route below.
Strid Wood and The Strid
Strid Wood is home to one of the largest remains of sessile Oak Trees in the Yorkshire Dales and between it runs the impressive River Wharfe. This ancient woodland is one of the most visited in the Yorkshire Dales and is a stunning spot to see all the changing colours of autumn. Known for its wide variety of flora and fauna including bluebells and wild garlic, Strid Wood is also home to an abundance of wildlife including deer, kingfishers and woodpeckers. This is a sheltered area so during the colder months, it's a good idea to wrap up warm in a good quality jacket like the Khaki Puffer Jacket from My Urban Trail.
Throughout Strid Wood are plenty of colour coded nature trails to follow. In 1810, the 6th Duke of Devonshire opened Strid Wood and the public were able to walk along the nature trails that had been created. Now, the trails follow surfaced paths through the woodland. The green trail is wheelchair and pushchair friendly.
At one point, the River Wharfe narrows dramatically forcing the full volume of the river through a carved out narrow gap in the riverbed. As the water rushes through this section, rock has been worn down to create a narrow channel with hidden caves and severe undercurrents. Found in the heart of The Strid, to see it up close you’ll want to be on the right side of the river as you follow it downstream. The Strid is thought to be one of, if not THE most, dangerous stretches of river in the UK. It’s thought to have a 100% fatality rate as people who have fallen or jumped in are sucked underwater with the current.
Take notice of the signs along the riverbank here, stay back from the edge and stay out of the water.
Where is parking for the Valley of Desolation?
The Bolton Abbey Estate has multiple car parks but this walk is best started at either the Riverside Car Park at the Cavendish Pavillion or the Barden Bridge Car Park.
If you choose to park at the Riverside Car Park, please note that there is a £15 charge to do so. The funds raised from this go back into maintaining the estate.
Starting at the Barden Bridge car park means you'll do this walk slightly differently, seeing The Strid first, then the waterfall and finally the woodland.
Is there public transport to The Valley of Desolation?
Arriving by bus
There are multiple bus services that stop at Bolton Abbey which can all be found and checked on the "Find Us" section of the Bolton Abbey website;
The timetable for these bus services can be found at www.dalesbus.org
Arriving by train
The closest train stations to Bolton Abbey are Skipton and Ilkley. It's best to then get a taxi to Bolton Abbey.
How long is the walk through the Valley of Desolation?
This walk to see The Strid, Strid Woodland and the waterfall is a short 7.9km but you'll find yourself stopping regularly and if you include a dip in the waterfall and a visit to the cafe then you'll find this walk takes you most of the day.
There is also the option to extend your walk by heading up to the summit of Simon's Seat by continuing up the path from the waterfall.
Is the Valley of Desolation family friendly?
Yes – the paths through Strid Wood and along each side of the River Wharfe are well maintained and easy to follow. Children will love paddling in the river down by the stepping stones and those keen hikers with little legs will love the walk up to Simon’s Seat if they’re used to the challenge.
Are there facilities within the Valley of Desolation?
Yes – lots of them! There are four main car parks on the Bolton Abbey Estate with facilities at some of them.
The Cavendish Pavillion has toilets, a café with a resident baker and a little visitor centre/shop.
Bolton Abbey Car Park is close to the village centre and is a great access point for the priory ruins and stepping stones. Within the village, there are tea rooms, a gift shop, Post Office and a bookshop.
Can you swim in the Valley of Desolation?
Swimming in The Strid is incredibly dangerous and sternly warned against from the signs along the river bank. Much further upstream and downstream there are numerous swimming and paddling spots but note that the River Wharfe has strong currents and hidden debris underneath.
The waterfall within the Valley of Desolation is a great place for a secluded dip but unfortunately, not deep enough for a proper swim.
Valley of Desolation walk route and map
Download the Ordnance Survey route and map here.
1. Starting point at the Riverside Car Park at the Cavendish Pavillion.
2. Cross the bridge from outside the cafe and immediately turn left, following the riverside path towards the woods. The River Wharfe should be on your left here. After going through the gate, follow the sign to the right, up through the woods. It is signposted for the Valley of Desolation.
3. Meeting the road, follow it for a few minutes and look for a wooden gate on the right. Follow this path across the field and to the track which then winds through the trees, eventually opening up again. Keep left and follow the path to the viewpoint with a bench.
4. This is where the waterfall is hidden.Head down this steep path, cross the wooden bridge across the river and then keep right. The path here is a bit overgrown but it will lead you right to the base of the waterfall. Retrace your steps back to the road and this time turn right until you reach a small bridge with a footpath that leads towards the river, following it upstream. I'm also wearing my zip through Rambler fleece here; it really warmed me up after a chilly dip!
5. Following the path up through the woods, it will lead away from the river and uphill. There's a great view down to The Strid at one point. When you reach the bridge, cross it to get to the other side.
6. Follow the river downstream and eventually reach The Strid. This is where the river narrows and the water is pushed between a narrow gap in the rocks. You can walk along the edge of the rocks here when the river level is lower but the rocks are slippery so be careful. Do not enter the water here. Follow the riverside path downstream back to the Riverside Car Park.
A - alternative car park at Barden Bridge.
Komoot App
Have you ever tried Komoot? Komoot allows you to access routes planned by others or plan your own which you can then download to your phone to follow while you are out. Komoot is free to join and access and you can find the route for his walk here.
What else is there to do in the Valley of Desolation?
A walk up to Simon’s Seat and Barden Moor is well worth the effort as views on a clear day are beautiful. Barden Moor and Barden Fell is suitable for hikers with more experience as self navigation will be needed.
The priory ruins are worth a visit too as well as the stepping stones, which are slightly further down river but within walking distance of the car park.
Good to know
- Grouse shooting takes place on Barden Moor and Barden Fell from 12th August to 14th These areas remain open during this time.
- Barden Moor and Barden Fell can sometimes be closed during spells of dry weather due to fire risks. In this case, the Valley of Desolation would be included in this closure.
- Dogs are not permitted within the Valley of Desolation
- The green nature trail through Strid Wood from the Cavendish Pavilion to the Strid is pushchair and wheelchair friendly
For additional UK outdoor adventures, wild swimming, hiking routes and more, check my other blog posts here on MY URBAN TRAIL and follow me @Wild_0utdoors on Instagram.
Happy adventuring!
Izzy